Dial in runtimes for lawns, beds, and borders. Match output to plants, soil, and weather. Save water while hitting your weekly moisture target precisely.
| # | Area (sq ft) | Weekly target (in) | Adj weekly (in) | Sessions/wk | Flow (GPH) | Eff (%) | Minutes/session | Cycle? |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| No runs added yet. | ||||||||
Sample entries show how runtime changes with area, flow, and sessions.
| Zone | Area (sq ft) | Weekly depth (in) | Sessions/wk | Total flow (GPH) | Efficiency | Estimated minutes/session |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Raised bed | 80 | 1.0 | 2 | 48 | 85% | 31 |
| Hedge strip | 150 | 1.25 | 3 | 60 | 80% | 31 |
| Vegetable row | 240 | 1.5 | 3 | 90 | 85% | 44 |
This calculator converts a weekly moisture goal (inches) into a per‑session runtime. A common baseline for many ornamental beds is 1.0 inch per week, split into 2 sessions to reduce runoff. Deep, less frequent soaking can encourage stronger rooting, while shallow daily watering can keep roots near the surface. Use the sessions setting to match your schedule and your soil’s intake capacity. For seedlings, reduce depth but increase frequency slightly.
Soaker hoses vary widely with water pressure, length, and manufacturing tolerances. If your package lists an output like 60 GPH per 100 ft, treat it as a starting point. A quick field check is to run the hose into a container for 60 seconds, measure liters or gallons collected, and convert to gallons per hour. Re‑check after adding timers, splitters, or additional hoses.
Delivery efficiency accounts for small leaks, dry spots, and end‑of‑line losses. Many gardens land around 80–90%. If you notice puddling near the supply end and dryness at the far end, lower efficiency or shorten the hose run. On long runs, looping the hose or feeding from both ends can improve uniformity and reduce required runtime.
The calculator estimates application rate (inches per hour) and compares it to a practical infiltration limit by soil type. When application exceeds intake, a cycle‑and‑soak plan is suggested. For example, instead of one 60‑minute run, try 3 cycles of 20 minutes with 20–60 minutes of soak time. This improves penetration, reduces runoff on slopes, and keeps water in the root zone.
Save runs in the results table and export CSV or PDF for consistent maintenance. Update your targets as temperatures shift: hotter periods often need a higher weekly depth, while cool weeks can be reduced. Mulch can cut demand by lowering evaporation, and plant categories help reflect different water needs. Revisit settings monthly, especially after rain events, pruning, or new plantings.
Run the hose into a container for 60 seconds, measure collected volume, then multiply by 60 for hourly output. Repeat after adding splitters or longer lengths, because pressure changes can reduce flow.
Many established garden beds do well near 1.0 inch weekly, adjusted for heat and plant type. Sandy soils may need more frequent sessions, while clay often needs fewer, slower sessions to avoid runoff.
Efficiency represents water that actually reaches the root zone. Leaks, uneven wetting, and dry ends reduce effective delivery, so the calculator increases runtime to compensate and keep your target depth consistent.
Use it when water pools or runs off, or when the application rate exceeds soil intake. Split one long run into multiple shorter cycles with soak breaks to improve infiltration and reduce surface loss.
Yes. Enter the irrigated lawn area and your measured total flow. Keep sessions moderate and consider cycle‑and‑soak on slopes. Always verify coverage, because turf areas can have dry stripes without overlap.
Recheck monthly and after major changes: hotter weather, new plantings, pruning, or pressure adjustments. If you add mulch or extend hose length, update the multipliers and flow so runtimes stay accurate.
Important Note: All the Calculators listed in this site are for educational purpose only and we do not guarentee the accuracy of results. Please do consult with other sources as well.